Lingerie Specialists Techniques Class

Inspired by Melissa at Ferh Trade, I signed up for a lingerie sewing course at Morley College.  They had a wide range of courses at convenient times, and my class tutor, Carol Harrison, was both approachable and knowledgeable.  My fellow students were also a pleasure to be around.  So all around, it was great fun.  I'd love to try another course again sometime, and I highly recommend it to anyone in the greater London area.

First, we made this racy lingerie set to get used to using a serger and applying elasticated trim with a serger.  We were given the supplies and the pattern, so I can't take credit for the creative vision on this one.  It is a combination of black power net, stretch lace, red silk and organza ribbons.  It sort of looks like something Diamond Lil at the Last Chance Saloon might wear under her petit coats.  

What did I learn from it?  That sergers are a marvel.  I wish I could have one.  No money + no space = no serger.

  

We had to make it up in a sample size:-(
It's been many, many years since I could squeeze into a sample size.

For my final project, I decided to do a bra and panty set.  I am very fond of that 1930s peachy pink that used to be used in women's lingerie.  I found some beautiful silk damask fabric on etsy.  It's the sleeves off of a vintage kimono.  It's very strong and stable, almost like coutille.

This is what I chose to make. 

Unfortunately, finding the notions and the powernet to match was well nigh impossible.  Even sitting in one of Europe's largest cities, I couldn't do it.  In the end I had to compromise a bit.  I ordered a bra notions pack from merckwaerdigh through Etsy.  The straps and elastic from the pack were more of a blue-y pink than a peachy pink.  The power net is from Tissu fabrics.  It is obviously a much stronger pink than the blushing pink I had in mind.  It looks OK, but for me, the moral of the story is to start with your notions/power net first because these items will be your constraint.

Close up of the bra

The bra pattern is from the book, Bare Essentials: Bras.  It is a standard, full cup pattern nothing too fancy.  It is a good pattern but I think the cup sizes run a little big.  I am normally a B cup and I sewed an A which was still a little roomy, initially. 

The pants are from BurdaStyle 1/2012-128.  Their version calls for a zipper down the side.  I have seen this before in vintage briefs, but it doesn't look comfortable for me.  So, I omitted the zipper, since I was using power net for the back and sides.

Style 128, January 2012 edition.

Just as an aside, while on the course we used mechanical Berninas.  I have a Janome MC11000 SE.  I am sad to say that the stitch quality on these war-horse, used and abused, school Berninas was better than my top of the line Janome.  This was especially true, when starting a thin fabric or sewing on the edge.   There is no way that I can afford to change machines, and my Janome isn't really bad.  I just have to admit for the record, that, having tried both, the Berninas were better.

Finally, it was great to take a course and to be reassured that I was on the right track.  But, there is so much information generously given on the internet that you really could learn all this at home through reading blogs and having a try yourself.  Sigrid's blog, Sigridsewingprojects, is full of help and tutorials for sewing a bra.  ClothHabit's bra sew-a-long also springs to mind.